A rail journey around India, beginning & ending in Mumbai...

A rail journey around India, beginning & ending in Mumbai...

Tuesday, 11 November 2014

Easy life on the rails.....

             Reversed my 50km trip via bus back from Pondicherry to Villupurum railway junction. Rather quaintly named and lends on to think this might be miles off in the boonies, with just a single train passing through per day. Not true, and in keeping with all things ‘Indian Railways’ is on a massive scale. On this day, the Gurgaon Express chose to be an hour and 10 minutes late. Indian trains do not exactly screech into stations, but very slowly enter. Just as well today, as a herd of goats decided to amble down the track.
             It is always difficult to decipher muffled railway station tannoys--this one especially so, with the on-going screech in female Tamil---was I on the wrong platform, is the train cancelled, does it run on Tuesdays, were my tickets in error?? Despite being everywhere in street signage, actual knowledge of English is particularly thin in the south---a simple question, like, ‘when is the train coming’ unleashes a torrent of explanation from very friendly passengers, but unfortunately I can scarcely understand a word spoken and just have to nod politely.
               With several hours to idle, three to be exact, on the way to Tiruchy, drowsiness overtook me. Being one who can never really sleep on planes, I have however taken to sleeping on Indian trains like a duck to water. May be it is the fact that 2AC category passengers receive the convenience of a full length bed, clean white sheets and a pillow, has something to do with it!
               Arrived in Tiruchy (aka Trichy—many Indian place names have two, even three names—confusing to say the least for the tourist) at 3.00pm, and registered my self into my swanky (most up-market property in which I have stayed so far, in India) hotel---pre-booked thru Booking .com at what they call “Genius” rates. Perhaps they had a convention cancel on them. Attached to the Femina hotel is a food court, a small department store and only the second largish supermarket I have seen in the country---all 16 cities visited so far. How blessed can one be, not to have wander the dark & crowded streets seeking something to eat that does not have a spice level to lift ones head off! The name of my hotel in my next city (Madurai) rejoices in the name 'Moscow' Hotel---wonder what awaits me there!
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         The meaning of Indian gestures can sometimes be difficult for a Westerner to decipher. In the western world, a shake of the head north & south usually means “yes, OK, I am in agreement & permit”. The Indian equivalent as observed, is best described as a head wobble. The top of the skull moves to the left, the jaw moves to the right, alternating in rapid succession. This does require a certain looseness & flexibility of the spinal discs in the neck that I do not possess. The head ‘wobble’ gesture is frequently used by Indians for agreeing to that which is proposed.
            The second body gesture I have encountered that varies from European norms, is the clear and definite finger point to indicate a specific direction. The westerner typically makes a strong gesture, usually with the forefinger used like an arrow. The Indian will indicate a recommended direction with a broad sweep of the arm, across a 150 degree arc. This can be confusing for a lost soul --- I frequently find myself hammering away to obtain the navigational clarity that I seek.

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